onsdag 2. februar 2011

Roaming in Rogaland: the one when Siân visited Stavanger

Part One: Stavanger

Last weekend I took a brief trip to Stavanger to see Tristania again, but I was also excited because I'd never been there before and I'd heard it was a pretty little place. So I arrived, dumped my stuff in my very nice little hotel room (there's no such thing as a youth hostel in Stavanger - le sigh) and went for a wander.

The thing about visiting anywhere in Norway at the weekend, is that a lot of things are going to be closed on Saturdays, and on Sundays you've just got no chance. I always forget this when I plan my little adventures. This brings us to me standing outside a very closed tourist information office, staring gloomily in the window at the display of 'what to do here!' reading material.

So after a brief wander around the windy little shopping streets in the city centre, and staring some more, this time at the sale DVDs in Platekompaniet (I think they reduced Susanne Sundfør's album even more - d'oh!), I decided to go and have a look at the cathedraal before that closed as well. Considering I'm not a religious person, I spend an inordinate amount of time looking at churches. I just like them.

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Stavanger Domkirke
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Inside
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Me trying to take interesting photos... did it work?
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Carved figures on the wotsit that the priest stands in
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I thought this was a good idea. Translation:
'The quiet corner. Here you can sit down and take your time to pray, enjoy the peace, think, or read the bible. Light a candle when you pray, if you so wish'
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At night

I really wanted to make sure I found the concert venue in advance, so I trotted back down to the town centre to find it, snapping merrily along the way of course.

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Gamle Stavanger
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Found it!

There was an artist doing a sort of outside exhibition thing in the town center called 'finn formen av et hjerte' ('find the form of a heart'). He'd collected a lot of photos taken by a lot of different people and I thought they were really special. Here's a couple:

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Water droplet
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Clouds
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Ice
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Tree

Cool, no?

Then I was tired, so I had a nap after I found the venue. On the doorstep (I kid, but I bet you wouldn't have put it past me). I was veeeery excited about seeing Tristania again. I heart them. I told myself I had to be sensible and not turn up exactly when the doors opened because then I'd be waiting around on my own for ages. Norwegians never turn up until something's actually happening, which is good, but I just can't get used to it. I wandered in an hour after the doors opened, and it was just me and the band, who were sitting at a table next to the door looking at me.

'Err.. I guess I'll come back later'.

An hour later I wandered back in just in time to see support band Vulture Industries get on stage. I'd seen them before supporting someone in Glasgow, and I didn't remember being all that overwhelmed, but they were great fun.

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Totally didn't realise he was looking at me when I took the photo..

Tristania were amazing. I'll try not to bore you all with the details because you probably don't know or particularly care who they are, but eeeeeee! They played a lot of my favourite songs, and everyone was on top form. Guitarist Anders sounded like he was spitting venom, vocalist Kjetil sounded as angelic as ever (heeheehee), and Mary's just brilliant. She really makes all the old songs her own. Whenever I listen to them on my iPod now, I can hear her singing them in my head as well. Love it.


This is the very end of a song called 'Libre' from an album they released about 5 years ago. However, this ending isn't on the record. They never did this til Mary came along, and it's so cooool! Even better in real life, I assure you ;)

Guitarist Ole was giving it some welly as well. He seemed to be having a whale of a time, which was great to watch. They also had the violinist who's been recording with them for about 15 years put in an appearance. There's some definate perks to seeing a band in their home town!

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Anders, guitarist
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Mary, singer
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Guitarist Ole doing his best impression of a sweaty rabbit.. attractive much?
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Violinist, whose name I've fogotten, much to my embarassment
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Set list, for anyone who's interested. It was a reeeally good one

Part Two: Lysefjord

Seeing as everything in town was closed on Sunday, I hopped on a boat for a cruise of nearby Lysefjord, home to the famous Preikestolen (the pulpit rock) and Kjeragbolten (a boulder wedged between two sheer cliff faces 1000m over the fjord, which tourists delight in standing on).

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Preikestolen
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Kjeragbolten

I have plans for conquering both of them at some point in the future, but it's too icy at this time of year. Can you imagine slipping on a patch of ice on Kjeragbolten? Yes, let's not do that.

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Not long into our voyage, we encountered a part of the fjord that was completely frozen over. No bother for hurtigruten! She plowed straight through it, so she did.

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Path through the ice

Eventually we hit the mouth of Lysefjord proper. Straight away cliffs started rising up around us. It was easy to see why this fjord is so famous for its weird rock formations.

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Preikestolen viewed from below :)

It was in invigorating trip, that is to say very interesting and bloody freezing!

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